Road to Paradise!

I think this photo was taken by Mike Gauthier
Check out his photography

Finally, after 6 months of expensive road repairs the Longmire to Paradise road has opened! The floods of last November have left us stranded with no way into the Mt. Rainier National Park. Check out Mike Gauthier's blog for more info on the road and some of his great flood damage photos. I am sure the mountain is getting all tracked out as we speak as the backcountry skiers and boarders finally have access to the awesome snow that the higher elevations of Washingotn provide. Maybe I could get up there this Sunday for some Tatoosh climbing!
According to Mike Gauthier's blog, most the other roads around the park will be opening in mid May. With the exception of HWY 123 which provides access from Ohanapecosh/Packwood area to Sunrise/Whiteriver/Enumclaw. HWY 123 may be closed all summer do to the extensive washouts :(
It's time to dig your ice axe out of the closet and sharpen those crampons and head out to the icon of Washington!

South Early Winter Spire

I finally made it into the mountains for some awesome alpine climbing. Check out my trip report here


The North Cascade highway opened last weekend and it looks like the place has just been packed with skiers and climbers. During our climb of the Southwest Couloir we counted at least 25 skiers and plenty of dogs skinning up to the Blue Peak saddle for an awesome ride down. We were wishing for our snowboards the whole time.
The Southwest Couloir route was great! It was mostly steep snow with sections of mixed ice/rock. Really fun and great for aspiring alpinist! I climbed with my friends Dylan and Mark who are recent Washington transplants and new to alpine climbing and this route was a great way to scare them shitless!

Tieton River Rock

Reka and I went to Tieton River on sunday to do some moderate crack climbs. Check out the full trip report! I have always enjoyed the easy cracks here and it is a great place for the aspiring trad climber to test there skills. This was the first place I ever led a trad route. It was Western Front, 5.3***. I remember on my lead I placed so much gear I was starting to pump my self out! Eight years later I have learned that the route only requires 3 or maybe 4 pieces to protect it well. Not saying there is anything wrong with over protecting a route ( I still do it quite often).
The first climbing area you will see at Tieton River is the Royal Columns. This is a moderate meca for crack routes. You can find anything from 5.0 - 5.10 trad routes and harder if you want to clip bolts. Another thing that you can find here are lots of snakes! Be careful and bring a snake bite kit. I spent my whole life in the Utah desert and only saw one rattlesnake. I go to the TIeton and I will see at least four.
Tieton River is also home to Goose Egg Mountain. I haven't climbed here yet but am excited to do so before the summer is over. Dirty Sanchez, Grade III 5.8 it's about 7 pitches of climbing. Ride the Lightning, Grade III 5.9 another 7 pitch climb. These routes look great with quality climbing.

Check out
Tieton River Rocks by: Marlene Ford and Jim Yoder
A great climbing guide book for the area.

Ride the Lightning